Early in the morning we caught a train to the first of the five towns, Riomaggiore. The air was cold and the sun had not yet crept over the hills, so the pastels of Cinque Terre were muted and dark.

We slowly crawled around the town at first, but a staircase leading up up up to an old cathedral, and a path, called us. Most / All of the trails around Cinque Terre were closed — either indefinitely, like the entire coast walk, or temporarily like those impacted by rain. So, after some confusion, we trekked all the way up to the highway.

We crossed the highway, through a tunnel, and down into Manarola. By this time, the sun was higher in the sky, although barely over the hills. We were warm from our walk, and laughed as we sneaked through alleys down the mountain.